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taking up traditional archery

Discussion in 'Ohio Traditional Archery' started by Sammy, Sep 12, 2012.

  1. Been wanting to make the switch, but from what I've read it's not as easy as most would like it to be. I know I need to start around the 30# to 35# range to build good form/muscle memory and work up to a hunting rig but that is about all I know. Any and all advice would be appreciated. Also, does anyone know of a knowledgeable archery shop in the greater cincinnati area or does anybody have a good starter bow for sale?
     
  2. Not much around here as far as trad goes. Check out Craigslist, I've seen a few on there.
    Where are you in Cincy?


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  3. if theres no one to teach you to shoot theres good books on it...3 rivers archery and lancaster archery has very good books...if you plan on hunting get a book on insinctive shooting...both these companies sell a full line of trad bows and equip. and can be very helpful to get you set up with the right stuff...let them know what you plan to do and they might suggest a proper book on shooting...you can get brand new samick recurves and longbows starting at 125$...up to bout 400$...these are very good bows...very reasonable for the beginner...its sort of preference as for using a tab or a glove...its prolly a lil more traditional usin a glove...get an armguard also...theres all kinds of quivers to choose from...you have a choice of wood ,alum.or carbon arrows...a lot of trads use wood arrows...almost any adult can easily handle a 40# bow right from the start...which is also legal for hunting but with the takedown you can buy extra stronger limbs for about half the cost of the entire bow...if you prefer starting out with lighter wt.thats ok...:biggrin:
     
  4. I'm in northern KY.
     
  5. I started bowhunting at 14 and during my second season my father had blown a shot at a big buck and blamed his peep so he stripped the sights off both our bows. I shot by sighting down the arrow and got pretty good but was never able to drive tacks. I think that was mainly due to the hand me down PSE fireflight I was using was too long for me. Anyway, shooting without sights isn't completely foreign to me and I forgot to mention, at that time i shot using a glove. Just looking for a jumping off point.
     
  6. Coonie--so what your saying is the limbs on a takedown are interchangeable? If so, I didn't realize that. With a takedown I could start with lighter limbs until the form is solid then work my way up? That seems like the way to go.

    I plan on picking up the books you recommended along with another, "Shooting the Stickbow".

    I'm stll hoping to find somewhere I can go and actually lay hands on a bow since I don't know what I'm looking for buying off the internet kinda freaks me out.
     
  7. Me and my buddies all shoot trad. We've got a few bows between us you could check out. The problem would be getting everybody together.


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  8. after checking out the Samick bows at 3 rivers per your suggestion Coonie that definately seems the way to go as far as a starter.

    Do I need to have my draw measured or can I just go with what my compound draw length is?
     

  9. If ya'll ever do get together for a shoot locally I'd love to hook up with you. As long as I have nothing else going on I'd have no problem making the commute.
     
  10. We're not too far (Milford).
    Don't get set on a sammick. Try some first. I've shot them and didn't care for them. There should be a trad shoot coming up at Clinton county sportsmans club. They have one every year.


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  11. I've also got a custom Ed Neat longbow I'd probably part with for no less than $160.00
    I bought it last year at the OSTA shoot, but never got arrows for it.


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  12. check out lancaster archery...they have the whole line of samicks...yes the limbs are interchangeable...a bolt holds each one on...some need a wrench,some dont...and many will take longbow limbs and recurve limbs...martin and bear make nice bows too but are more expensive...especially the takedown models...:D

    your draw length could be 3"shorter than the compound...many archery shops can check it with a special bow...i think 3 rivers has a method for measuring it too...an online video...

    longer bows are easier to shoot...most people at 6 foot will find that a 60" bow to be about right...a 62"should really be the ticket...in most cases if you have a 60" and a 62" bow both at 45#...the longer bow will be slightly easier to pull...there is the matter of finger pinch too with longer bows having less because of string angles...a real short bow of 52"is much different than a 62"bow especially for the archer over 6'tall...a 52"bow simply will not pull as far as the 62"...its called stack...and the finger pinch is very noticable on the 52"bow...
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 13, 2012
  13. I did check out the Lancaster page per the suggestion from someone on another site, they actually recommended the tradtech risers that accept the IFL limbs. I didn't realize with the right riser I could have several limb options. I kinda like that, gonna have to research more.


    Thank you both Coonie and Jericho for the input, I've got alot of homework to do, this is nothing like picking a compound.

    Jericho--I would like to check out that trad shoot, keep me posted.
     
  14. the trad tech seems real nice...not sure but i think geezer has one...i think the poundage is ajustable slightly too on them...kind of expensive though...:D
     
  15. after looking at the trad tech online I think it's too pricey to start with, i'm leaning more towards the samick sage, now I just need to lay hands on one before I decide. With the sage i could upgrade to a higher poundage bow twice as I work towards the weight of a hunting rig and still come in at under the cost of the trad tech riser alone.

    Would 30# be enough to bowfish? Being frugal I was thinking I could maybe set my starter bow up to fish with after I upgraded, just curious.
     
  16. I honestly couldnt bring myself to start out with a 30# bow. IF you are a healthy active person i personally think 40# is a fine place to start. The real light weight bows just dont have enough umph to even make practice fun IMO. A longer(60-64" bow) will be smooth and stable so thats the length i would look into.

    As far as bowfishing, im sure you could do it with 30#, but a fiberglass arrow is heavy and you wont be able to shoot very far or deep. I shoot a 50# recurve for bowfishing, but i think down to 40# would be ok. I got a 54# black widow to hunt with this year, and as smooth as it is the draw weight feels the same as the 50# pse kingfisher.

    I think you need to go and shoot at least 20 arrows out of a bow in the high 30 to 40# range and see how you feel afterwards. You will be getting a little tired id guess, but if you shoot 20 arrows every day/everyother day your strength will build up quickly.
     
  17. Get u a 45, a Bear at that, you'll be happy with it.
    Try to shoot the samick before buying one. I liked them till I shot one.
    There's a trade days at eastern hills rod and gun club, as well as a shoot, (it's not trad, but you can shoot trad) if you wanna go, I may, as well as my buddies, but if I don't, you can borrow my bow (I live like 8 minutes away from EHRGC). Its a 45# Fred Bear, just don't f it up. I shoot wooden arrows, they're like 12 bucks a piece....same with them.
    I'll figure out if I'm going or not soon. I know wildman is, but he's going early, I gotta see what's up, but I'm sure we can work something out.
    I've got that longbow too, but my arrows aren't the right spine, but you can get the gist of it.
    Usually someone there has recurves for sale.


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    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 14, 2012
  18. I only shoot 58# with my bowtech but know I could easily add 15 # without an issue. I cut alot of wood and workout several times a week but didn't want to go against what everyone was telling me by starting light. It's good to hear that I don't have to go so light.

    Jericho--a couple years ago a buddy at work sold me a bear kodiak, beautiful green bow and I stole it for $20 or at least I thought I did. I didn't know anything about trads at that time and had a guy show me the step thru method (i know now NOT to do this) of taking the string off. The bow broke and scared the crap out of us both, luckily no injuries. I assumed the bow was cracked and didn't see it when I bought it but later learned it could have been my goofy buddy.........anyway if I am able to join you I would definately respect the goods.
     
  19. pretty sad about the bear...too many people that dont know a thang about how theyre strung have busted many of a bow...i'm really surprised at how many of them string the bow backwards...as a collector i've about heard it all...i've got many bows with twisted limbs because people strung em up backwards and shot em...funny they all say the same thang about how weak the bow shoots...one guy actually hunted with his 55#browning cobra that way...told me he just couldnt believe it could kill a deer...but he thought it was ok...:Dboth limbs on that bow was twisted badly...looked like a propeller...but i managed to untwist them and today that lil 50"cobra is a wonderfull shooter and a very nice looking bow...always use a bowstringer...using the step thru method should only be done by one that knows what he's doing...thats how i was taught but today i use a stringer un less i lost it...then i may step thru...i personally think the sage is a great bow for beginners...its cheap and you can buy xtra limbs for 75 dollas...buy it in 40-45#...its a 62"bow...unless youre very tall that length should be great...and at 135 dolla its about as cheap as any decent used bow you can buy...most of my vintage bows are well over that price and theyre not takedowns...with one pc. bows you cant change limbs...theres a few on here thats bought samicks as a first bow and like them...for that price i cant see it as much of a loss at that cost...

    also light poundage bows are a lot of fun to shoot imo...but i think you can handle 4o/45...thats enough for bowfishing too...after awhile youll know about how much poundage you can handle...with that sage a new bow(limbs) will only cost 75$...you can really xperiment with higher poundages at that cost...:biggrin:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 14, 2012
  20. Yeah, but most guys who shoot trad have several bows. Just look at all you have coon.



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