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Necking down brass

Discussion in 'Reloading, Target Shooting, and Firearms' started by Catfish, Dec 21, 2002.

  1. This is just alittle trick that I learned that my save you buying a from die set if your going to neck brass down from any caliber to another. It will work if your takeing .22 cal. brass down to .17 cal. or .30 cal, to .270, as long as your not going to far. When I form my .17 K-Hornet brass from .22 hornet or my .17-223 brass from .223 brass. It is best to polish the brass first and get it not only clean but slick. I then get a very small amount of vasoline on the middle finger of my left hand and turn the neck only of the case between it and my thumb. Then run the brass into the seating die. This will take the brass down most of the was. Then run the brass into the full lenth sizeing die. By doing it in 2 steps you should lose about no brass during the forming process, and can save the money you would have spent on froming dies for something else.
    For those of you doing this for the first time you should know that the brass in the case necks will now be thicker and may have to be turn down to chamber. If it`s for a factory chamber it probly won`t, but for tighter neck chambers it will. When turning neck I like to have them so that they will expand about .002 when fired. This is enough so that you will not run into higher presures and with only .002 of expantion you will not work your brass much and it will last alot longer.
    Anyone with questions about forming brass for a wildcat just post them and I will try to answer them.
     
  2. Thats a neat trick. Thanks for sharing.
     

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