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Discussion in 'Ohio Trapping and Varmint Hunting' started by irish, Sep 23, 2012.

  1. anyone trap mink along a lake shore or bank? can anyone give me a few pointers?
  2. Many times there's a noticable trail in the grass at the top edge of the pond/lake and a 110 or 120 set there produces. Another for both mink and rats is a 110 or 120 set at the bottom edge of a steep bank as if the animal was following the edge, (this even works in deeper water).:biggrin:

  3. I agree with Redvette.

    If you are looking to buy some traps for this reason I recommend checking into the BMI 110 mag conibears. I prefer these not only for the spring quality but because they have a closed triangular trigger. A lot of times conibear traps will have the simple dove tail trigger and many times mink can run through those without even setting them off.

    If you already have conibears with the dove tail trigger there is an easy solution. If you take shrink tube and small cable (you can find this in the hardware section of any store. It is the cable you use to hang pictures with). Cut a small section of the cable and use the shrink tube to connect the small piece of cable to both ends of the dove tail. This will create a loop connecting the trigger ends and will prevent those mink from running through.

    Another thing I would recommend is that when you set the trap, move the trigger slightly so there is a little bit of play in it. Sometimes if a mink runs into the trigger and it doesn't move, they will back out and go around the trap. However, if the trigger moves slightly they think they can push through it and you will have fewer misses.

    Lastly with setting conibears high and dry, you need to put a little bit of grass over top of the trap. Now I don't mean a clump but just enough to disguise the outline of the trap. An easy way to determine how much you need is to get down on your knee and look down the trail you are setting in. What do you notice? There are blades of grass and sticks that hang over and into the path of the trail. Use a little bit of grass to block any path around the trap, as well as to disguise the shape. You can use sticks on an angle outward from the trap to stabilize the conibear, and should be done this way. Usually three small sticks pointing outward on the inside of the set jaws works fine. That way when the trap goes off you will not have any debris in the trap itself.

    If you are targeting other species, a pocket set always works well. This will catch those mink, muskrat, and coon in the area. I've even taken fox in these sets. You don't even really need bait inside, but you can throw a little jack mackerel or some kind of fish bait in the back and plug the hole with a hand full of wet grass. If you have questions on bait I can go into a lot greater detail on that another time. A hand full of fresh mud smeared around the entrance of the pocket set will work as good as anything!

    Hope this helps!
  4. The bottom edge redvette mentioned does work amazingly as well, especially in high water conditions. I set both high and dry as well as bottom edge when I am targeting muskrat and mink. That way you have them either way they are traveling. Mink spend much more time away from water than they do in it, but you'll pick them up with both.