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For guys with boats:

Discussion in 'Warm Water Species Fishing' started by BottomBouncer, Jan 6, 2003.

  1. What happens if you don't winterize? My problem is, what if I want to take the boat out, do you have to winterize again? My boat has sat since early September. Now that I have more time, if a warmer day comes up I might take it out.
     
  2. My outboards I don't worry about .. just make sure the water is out of the water pump. no water in the carbs, spray some oil in each cylinder .... It all depends on how long the motor is going to be sitting... most outboards have enough oil in the gas they burn so I don't fog the heads. On my inboad I have to take all the hoses off and drain the waterjackets, plus fog the heads while it is running ... I generally don't take it out until its above freezing for good, its too much of a pain to drain it. Winterizing is more about the motor sitting for months on an outboard .. on a sterndrive its about protecting the motor from freezing.
     

  3. I figured with it sitting for so long before the first real freeze, that water should be gone. Over two months should cause the water to evaporate.

    Any tips on what to do for the first outting of the season? New plugs.....anything like that?
     
  4. Winterize boat

    As long as the motor is stored tilted all the way down you are OK. I tilt mine all the way up and back down several times after removing the boat from the water, just to make sure.

    Several things should be done before putting an outboard away for the winter:

    1) Change lower unit oil. Make sure there is no sign of water in the oil (cloudy or "coffee with cream look). Water freezing in the gearcase will ruin a lower unit. If there is indication of water, have a shop do a pressure test to check the seals.

    2) Treat the gas with a fuel stabilizer. Some will say keep the tank full (less chance of condensation) I say almost empty and fill up with fresh gas before the first outing in the spring.

    3) Fog the carb/cylinders with a good fogging oil. Some motors have a port for this, others you squirt the oil in the spark plug hole. This keeps internal cylinder parts from corosion.

    When you pull it out of storage, fill with fresh gas, start it up with cuffs at home to burn out fogging oil. Change the fouled plugs (fouled from fogging oil). If you do these things your outboard will outlast you!

    If you get on WC do a search on winterization...lots of good info there.

    Tim
     
  5. What happens if you don't winterize

    ~ Toolman covered the bases very well .. other than mostly wear & tear on the above check-off items, that lower unit check is probably the most important & costly if it freezes because of water in it ~ probably the no#1 reason for the water in the lower unit is wrapped fish line cuttin' the O-ring seal.
     
  6. Myself being boatless:( I would be happy with a 14ft jon boat, and a set of oars:D
     
  7. flathunter ...

    I don't see how you've gotten along without a car-topper (at least) this long with fishin' the creeks & streams that you do. My 1st boat was a beatup leaky 12' Jon that I slid in the back of my truck that cost less than what you pay for your reels (40 buck$ in the early 60s). It sure would be better than beating your way though the woods & sliddin' down to bankside holes ~ just anchor & sit in comfort without draggin' gear cross-country .. of course you got to load & unload the boat & sometimes drag it across shallow spots.

    Back then I was young & 6' 130 lbs & now I'm old & 5' 11" & 230 lbs :rolleyes: :p ... to old for either type anymore, so I just troll my life away:eek:

    :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2003
  8. raybob the original

    river troll
    :D :D :D :D ;)
     
  9. Bro Rick .. I'm a Lake Troll with NO choppers ...

    ~ here's a River Troll :eek: :eek:

    [​IMG]

    :p :p
     
  10. :D :D :D :D :D man,he's even uglier than you:eek: :eek: :D ;)
     
  11. So, what you're telling me...Erie....is that you've lost an inch and gained 100lbs.? :p
     
  12. and gained 100lbs

    :cool: ~ It'd get kinda ugly with a old fat 250 lb lake troll sittin' at the a$$ end of a 12' 60d Jon for sure:eek: :eek:

    :rolleyes: :p :p

    :D
     
  13. i resemble that remark

    It'd get kinda ugly with a old fat 250 lb lake troll sittin' at the a$$ end of a 12' 60d Jon for sure :p :p :p[​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 8, 2003
  14. Ya got it made-in-the-shade Bro Rick ...

    the MISFIT is only runnin' 5 degrees :cool: & doesn't look like a torpedoed frieghter standin' on end & headed for the bottom:eek:

    :rolleyes: :p
     
  15. it oughtta ride better now

    :D i just went on a diet and lost a quick 50 pouds:D :cool: ...........took one of the batteries out:D ;) now if i move the other on to the front seat storage comp.,it should only ride at 2 degrees:cool:
     
  16. I want to move my trolling battery up front. There is no compartment, but there is plenty of deck space. How hard would it be to cut out a hole and build a battery box? Is it even a good idea? I mainly fish out of the back of my boat and want to move some weight up front.
     
  17. battery up front ...

    If it's a small boat that doesn't get used in rough water at higher speeds it will work OK. If your boat is used on plane in rough water & weekend traffic the battery will get the krap beat out of it (shorten life), along with beatin' the krap out of your boat.
     
  18. Well......that shot that idea......maybe I should shed a few pounds?:rolleyes:
     
  19. ETM ...

    .. put a long handle shaft on it & sit forward or mount your ETM on the bow & turn the head around 180 & attach a long handled shaft (it's a lot easier to pull the boat than steer it from the rear) .. just a thought if you don't have a remote steer ETM.

    Ray

    PS .. even with a remote ETM, I have my controls on my dash & steer from the drivers seat.
     
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