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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I am a new bow hunter this year, recently I saw the new 2012 Rage Chisel Tip Broadheads, and was wondering, does that mean you can take a shoulder shot and take out more vitals like you would shoot with a rifle or shotgun? I guess my question is will my 70# bow put an arrow through the shoulder and into the heart and lungs or is the chisel tip more for if you miss by like a half inch or so and nic the outer part of the shoulder?
 

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if you hit the shoulder with an arrow from a bow theres a good chance youll get a whole inch penetration...but the more poundage the better chance it will penetrate more...its the one thang you hope not to hit thats close to the kill zone...single blade cut on contact heads can flat out fold up on contact with the shoulder...just shoot the heaviest bow you can and be accurate...keep broadheads sharp...:D
 

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A buddy of mine shoots a crossbow. He hit a doe last year right on the shoulder (accident), heard a loud POP and the doe took off. It was a Tekan T3 which has a chisel tip but is an expandable. The blades were gone and the tip ferule/tip was crammed down the arrow shaft. No blood, she might have cracked a bone but was not fatally wounded.

Shoot for vitals please.
 

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I hit a shoulder on a buck a few years back with a rage broadhead and only got 1-2 inches of penetration like coonskinner mentioned. Found half of a broken arrow about 100 yards away. It sounded like the arrow had hit a rock when it made contact.
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Chisel tip or not. Shot placement is key. Heck for that matter you can kill one with a field point. I lost a really good buck because he turned as soon as I shot and shot him in the front should with Muzzy 100 grain 3 blades. Only got about 3 or 4 inch penetration and he lived. Farmer seen him after season went out.
 

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They made the change because of arrow penetration on bone and also deflection. The broadheads fly good. I switched to swhacker this year. But like said earlier it's all about shot placement.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Any recommendations on a good broadhead that seems to fly pretty true? I have done some research on them but haven't decided on anything yet and time is ticking for me i guess, less than 2 months until the opener, thanks for all previous and future comments on this thread, nice to know that you can ask a group of other hunters questions when you're just starting out! thanks again guys
 

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Check out the swhackers if you want to go with a mechanical. YouTube has videos you can watch where they do comparisons. Good luck with whatever you choose.
 

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I had rage last year didn't get a shot but i ordered swhackers for this year buy one pack get a pack free should be here by next Friday if they don't work out I'm going to fixed blade probly nap Hell raisers

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I shoot Rage 2 blades and they have done me well. Haven't tried the chisel tips. If you put em in the right spot they are a devastating head. I have shot 9 or 10 deer with them and none has went over 100 yards. Most less than 50. They fly great. The key to good penetration and pass throughs is high kinetic energy. I shoot 70 lbs out of a dual cam bow. The bow I have that shoots them best (almost always a pass through) is believe it or not a 99 Proline Centerfire with recurve limbs and some big aggressive cams. They hit hard out of this setup. Shoots em better than my new bow.
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I shoot Rage 2 blades and they have done me well. Haven't tried the chisel tips. If you put em in the right spot they are a devastating head. I have shot 9 or 10 deer with them and none has went over 100 yards. Most less than 50. They fly great. The key to good penetration and pass throughs is high kinetic energy. I shoot 70 lbs out of a dual cam bow. The bow I have that shoots them best (almost always a pass through) is believe it or not a 99 Proline Centerfire with recurve limbs and some big aggressive cams. They hit hard out of this setup. Shoots em better than my new bow.
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U r correct I shoot the practice tip and it does hit just like my field points

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Discussion Starter #13
so either rage or swhackers? i like that you get and can get more practice tips for the rage heads so you dont completely shred your target like cheese before the season, is it the same with the swhackers or do you have to just shred up a target?
 

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so either rage or swhackers? i like that you get and can get more practice tips for the rage heads so you dont completely shred your target like cheese before the season, is it the same with the swhackers or do you have to just shred up a target?[/QU Some guys dont know this, but you can buy a set of replacement blades, knock the pin out of the practice head, install blades, change out the tip, and have another hunting head. Only thing is, it's blue.
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can you buy practice blades and tips and make the grey/red ones practice tips as well or no?[/QU Dont know about that. Maybe if you email or call them. I always pick a couple sets of hunting blades at Gander Mtn. but Ive never saw practice blades. I saw 3 packs of practice heads on their website.
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Discussion Starter #18
i know you can buy the three packs, but it would be nice to just by a conversion kit or 3 and make all 4 heads in the pack practice heads until season, then make all 4 broadheads lethal before i leave for the stand. Btw, do you think that its getting late to set up a stand or do i still have some time?
 

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i'm not up on all the new fancy stuff but heres what i think...most broadheads will fly well and do the job of killing.the rest is up to the shooter.you must have whatever head/arrow tuned perfectly to the bow.then be able to hit where youre aiming.i also believe single blade points will be most likely to windplane,especially the real wide shouldered ones...the 3"long to 1'wide is less likely to plane in single blade or any other design...i think the 3 bld.may be the most accurate type out there...i haven really had much xperience with the newer 4 bld.of course mechanicals is another thang with field tip accuracy but prone to failure or poor penetration but will do great on whitetails when put in the boiler room...forget about brand...most broadheads will be great...pic the one with the purtiest pack or gimmick name then get it tuned up to your bow and go do a lot of shooting...broadheads dont let you down...you let you down...go get em...good luck...an keep em sharp...if youre shooting very light poundage consider a cut on contact broadhead...i stay away from super cheap replaceable blade broadheads like walmart brand,etc.plus you dont have to pay 80$ for 3 either...most broadheads in 3 for 25 to 30$range will be quality broadheads...:D
 

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You still got time to get a stand set up. I would try to get it done sometime this month.
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