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View Full Version : Food Plots In Harrison County?




critterhunter
03-31-2004, 12:51 PM
Hey all, a buddy just purchased some land in Harrison county near Cadiz and he's letting me put some food plots in. I've done extensive reading on the subject and am going to purchase something from Whitetail Institute. Anyway, his land is on top of a ridge/hill/whatever you want to call it. In one spot there is a grass field that is on flat land at the top of the ridge. In fact, the field is kind'a bowl shapped a bit. The soil looks to have some clay in it. Not sure if it was strip minded and re-filled but much of the local land has been strip mined. Anyway, I'm wondering if high land like this can be planted in clover or should I go with something like alpha rack for droughty conditions. Like I said, it appears to have clay in the soil so it might hold enough moisture. My main concern is that since this land is near a ridge top the soil might drain to quickly and be more suited for alpha rack. I'm doing a PH test on this week as well. Any advice on what you've grown in the general area on high fields would be welcome. Email me if you can or respond here.




Buckmaster
03-31-2004, 02:56 PM
I debated the same topic last year on my hillside. I went with the Alfa Rack on the hillsides and well drained soil areas.

Ohio Bill
03-31-2004, 03:28 PM
When you order the seed whitetail institute will send you a video on where and how to plant it....Good luck!! I live in Harrison county and my property is sloped but im going to try both the imperial clover and the alphalfa rack...I guess i'll see if they both grow here...

chadwimc
03-31-2004, 05:48 PM
That Whitetail stuff is soooo expensive! The only time I use the stuff is when Walmart has it marked way down. I just bought 40 pounds of red clover at the feed store for $1.37 per pound. Its what the farmers use around here, so I know I'm getting the right plant for my area. Check around before you waste the extra money. If your spot is clay, you're gonna need lime by the ton...per acre. I had a lab do my soil analysis, I need 800 pounds per acre over five years to get my Ph right for clover.

shrivl
03-31-2004, 07:28 PM
I would definitely recommend the soil test and lime especially before spending lots of dollars on White Institute seeds. I would get my soil samples done and lime and fertilize as recommended. Ask the county extension agent what they recommend planting for deer and then get seeds from a local seed dealer. One thing you might try is planting some varieties of peas and such as they tend to improve soil conditions. The county extension office can help you out with that as well.

critterhunter
04-01-2004, 09:15 AM
Well, I got the soil test back and the soil is at 6.8 PH. A soil PH level of 6.5 to 7 is good for clover, so I'm right on the money. The potasium and phosphorus levels are about medium, so I'll probably put a something like a 0-24-24 on it to be safe.

Again, my main concern is if this soil is more suited to alphalpha or clover. What points me toward alphalpha is the fact that this is high country. What points me toward clover is the fact that the field is flat (IE: Not on the side of the ridge) and is bowl shaped (higher on the sides than in the middle). The soil also contains some clay so I think it might hold moisture enough for the clover to prosper.

Yes, White Institute is expensive but I like the fact that they blend different varieties together for a spread out production through the year. One plant type (IE: Red Clover) tends to peak and fall at certain times of the year. Also, I have a bag of Whitetail Buffet (a blend of alphalpha, clovers, sugar beats, etc.) that I bought about four years ago. I kept it in the basement in a cool dry place but I wonder if the bacteria on the clover is dead by now. Either way, I plan to plant this in one plot next to whatever I buy (probably the Institute's clover), so at least one plot will probably do well.

I'm going to be using a garden tiller to till this grass field. Somebody told me to only till it down 3 to 5 inches to avoid bringing dormant weed seeds to the surface. Any opion on this? I have a few other concerns that I need input on. I plan to: Rake off the dead matted grass, Till it to 3-5 inches, spread out the fertilizer and perhaps a bag of lime, till it again to mix it in and break the soil further, Use a skid or other heavy object (I need ideas on this since I'll be pulling a drag by hand) to pack and smooth the soil, Spread the seed with a hand thrower, Pack it again. Somebody told me I can get away with not packing the soil but I'm not sure. Any ideas and input are welcome.