using multiple aiming pins/bow sights

[ryf]

I want to not use my "dial-a-distance" on my horton, but I also do not want a scope. I was thinking about a modified composite bow site or adding multiple fiber optic pins to the sight that is stock, and setting one for 20,30,40, and doing it "bow style"

I'm not into fiddling with gismos and widgets when I'm on target, seems like something I'd screw up more than not, i can't really get the hang of it at the range, as I'm just used to not fiddling with things when I'm trying to hunt,

anyone had success? I tried searching, but its a bit tough since I'm not sure how thats said in crossbow "lingo"

thanks for the help!

["J"]

I always try to keep things as simple as possible so when that bruiser walks into your shooting lane things don't go awry :whistle: If you could use one pin and then adjust for the distance it would make life easier. just my .02 cents worth.

[XX78]

I am not sure about fiber optic pins, but you may be able to adapt something to this......


http://www.crossbow.com/products/118

[ryf]

my cb came with that already, I found some green red and yellow fiber optic pins that should be the right size, I would really just like to be able to split it 20 and 40 or 20 and 30 would be enough to KISS plan it, so I've got a frame of reference. I've googled every thing I can think of, I can't imagine I'm the first person to want more?

[XX78]

I may not be understanding your question fully. You don't want to use the dial a range, and by using multiple pins on the front of the cb you wouldn't have to. The rear part is acting just like a big peep site. You can use multiple pins on the front to shoot "bow style" as you put it. Like I said I may not be fully understanding, but at least I am trying;)

[cjd3]

I only use 1 pin too.

[ryf]

http://www.terrysarcheryplus.com/trophy_ridge.htm

found something, at the bottom of the page called AlphaCross.

I've also found these locally, they look like they would fit perfectly, I'll have to get some thumb nuts, but thats easy for me

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AVEQT

it sounds like you've got the idea, thanks for trying to figure this out with me!

[jeffmo]

don't rule a scope out,it can give you an advantage.
the 1st year i hunted with my crossbow i used sights pins and they worked okay but at low light times they really didn't get the job done.during the off season i bought a scope and the difference was amazing.
the light gathering capabilities that a scope offers are worth the money.

[ryf]

valid point, I might try it if I dont find happiness with my current path, but its not my preferred method.

[XX78]

My friend uses a red dot unit. I think he got it from BSA. The thing is good size and lets in a lot of light but has little to no magnification. You would have to probably use the dial a range with it though.

[ohiobuckmaster]

I dontknow how well you can see them, but this is how i use my horton.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v175/harleyrider/100_6703.jpg

[StealthHunter32]

I own a Horton Hunter and have chosen not to utilize the dial-a-range option. Like you, I just don't want another thing to worry about when I've got deer within bow range and I've found it to be somewhat erratic. I would highly recommend keeping the scope setup though. The Horton scopes have multiple "0's" that you can use depending on the distance of your target. I've sighted in mine to shoot dead on at 20yds, the second "0" at 30 and the center of the 2nd and 3rd "0" is good at 40. I feel more confident hunting with these sights over the pin setup on my Matthews LX. My $0.02.

[MrFurious]

I prefer the scope option as well.....just wish one of the mainstream optic manufacturers (Leupold, Bushnell, Sightron, Burris, etc) would step up to the plate and offer a good one. The ones offered by Horton, Excalibur, TenPoint, etc are all cheapies made in China or the Phillipeans with cheap lenses, and none of them are fully multi-coated (only the outside lenses are coated).

I personally don't like the red-dot style sights as they float too much. By float I mean the position of the dot will move around as you move your head, and yes that movement will change your point of impact. This makes a proper/consistent cheek weld critical, and as we all know when hunting from a treestand we often times have to contort ourselves into odd positions to get the shot.

Of what's available right now, the Excalubur Lumi-Zone is probably the best option. They work like a variable power rifle scope (sort of), but instead of being marked 3x, 4x, etc. they're marked in fps. Match the scope setting to your bow speed and the dots will be spaced properly for 10, 20, 30, 40 yards. Essentially, they work just like the Ballistic reticles that are so popular in rifle scopes these days.

The variable part of the scope is still changing the magnification, so when you adjust it up or down to match your bow speed you're actually increasing or decreasing magnification. In turn, since the reticle is on the second focal plane it gets larger or smaller, and as such the spacing between the dots increases or decreases).

The Excalibur's also use an etched glass reticle, so you don't have to have the illumination turned on to use it. No more draining your batteries during the middle of the day when there's no need for the illumination.

If you shop around you can pick one up for under $120. You'll need to get the Weaver-style rail from Horton ($25-30) and a good set of 1" rings as well. I personally prefer the Burris Signature Zee rings for two reasons: 1) the poly bushings prevent the scope from getting bent, pinched or scratched up by the rings, and 2) the poly bushings will help absorb some of the shock transmitted to the scope.